A Puppet Show
A fashion shoot by QQ x NIKIREI x JJ, featuring garments by musei., Te Rina Coffyn, junesxcry, A.MODA and Fourteen Laboratories.
Innovative ways of consuming have turned us into puppets. The algorithm fabricates a belief that what you see is your choice, but a surge of online fashion niches aligned with the pace of fast fashion continue to blur what it means to have your own fashion taste or independence. A manufactured freedom of choice.
Social media’s algorithm sucks us into a vicious cycle of continuous consumption—we consume what the algorithm will keep feeding us. Bernard Stiegler described this algorithmic logic as a kind of hyper-synchronisation, where “millions of people are connected every day simultaneously to the same television, radio, or play console programs.” This results in more tunnel-visioned opinions, immune to diversity, and locks us into echo chambers.
Consumers feel little accountability because we are detached from the commodities we consume. With technology becoming more advanced and evermore user-friendly, we are accustomed to mindless and excessive convenience. We have been made to feel inadequate with enough, convinced that more is better. Influencer and hype culture accelerates the glorification of commodities whilst luxury brands create a halo effect on their products, mirrored by fast fashion that exploits cheap labour to enact a belief that the consumer is abundant and can buy into any lifestyle they choose for the day.
We are being tricked to believe everything is as instantaneous as that [insert a generic hyperconsumeristic item you’ve seen lately that doesn’t need all that hype] you ordered from the other side of the world. Nothing comes from thin air.
To consume more consciously is to create more consciously. The next time you put clothing on your back, acknowledge the idea of its origin and the reason for its presence. Or don’t, it’s your choice whether you want to stop and think for yourself. Are you just a part of a puppet show?
This shoot showcases independent designers in Aotearoa whose practices reflect what it means to human and to create—fearlessly experimenting and creating with utmost dedication:
FOURTEEN LABORATORIES reworks pre-loved denim jeans using urban techniques such as waxing and distressing. Unknown to most, he emerged from an industry-standard background, harnessing those skills to craft distinctive garments blending artisanal methods with his renowned streetwear flair.
Junesxcry introduces experimental, one-of-a-kind, crochet and knit creations. Influenced by Tāmaki Makaurau’s vibrant art scene, she explores unique, web-like and distressed knitting techniques devoid of strict rules, embracing trial and error as part of her artistic journey.
A.MODA focuses on precise patternmaking and tailoring as the core of his practice. By skillfully merging feminine and masculine energies, A.MODA creates contemporary garments that defy traditional gender norms, showcasing the designer's dedication to challenging conventional fashion rules. This emphasis on meticulous craftsmanship and the exploration of gender fluidity underscores A.MODA's status as a conceptually driven designer.
Musei investigates a sprawling landscape of expression that orbits around an embodied relationship to the self—exploring the intricate connections between personal identity and fashion. Her work in adornment and clothing is informed by versatile functionality whilst considering ethical sensibilities such as veganism and Indigenous practices.
Te Rina Coffyn explores the concept of decay by capturing fragility and deterioration in her designs. For her masteral collection, she repurposes old military uniforms unearthed from the ground, transforming them into pieces that reflect the passage of time and the narratives embedded within the fabric and its wearer.
CREDITS: QQ x NIKIREI x JJ present ‘A Puppet Show’
CREATIVE DIRECTION/PHOTOGRAPHY. QQ @passionfruit.jnr
FASHION DIRECTION. Nikirei @milkireii
VIDEOGRAPHY. JJ @jj.farry
TALENT. Caleb @calebtaulapiu_ Taona @taonaishe_
SET ASSIST. Ariki @ariki.xyz View @varit_k Ding @dingfly.lu
FASHION. @musei__studio @vesselsofdecay @amoda_official @junesxcry @fourteenlabs
The Art Paper attends the opening of Aotearoa Contemporary at Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki with photographer Felix Jack, capturing the hottest looks on the night.